The Ultimate Glossary Denim Terms

March 12, 2026

The Anatomy of a Pair of Jeans

This is the material your jeans are made from.

Cotton – Most jeans start with cotton fibers. Cotton is strong, breathable, and comfortable, which makes it perfect for everyday clothing.
Raw Denim – Raw denim is denim that hasn’t been washed or treated after being made. It starts stiff but softens over time and develops unique wear patterns.
Indigo – Indigo is the deep blue dye used to color denim. It sits on the surface of the cotton threads, which is why denim fades over time.
Twill – Denim fabric is woven in a special diagonal pattern called twill. This gives jeans their strength and the classic diagonal lines you see on the fabric.
Slub – Slub refers to small natural bumps or uneven textures in the yarn. Some denim has more slub, giving it a unique, textured appearance.
Fabric Weight – Denim weight is measured in ounces (oz). Lighter denim feels softer and breathable, while heavier denim feels thicker and more rugged.
Rigid vs Stretch
- Rigid denim is made from 100% cotton and has no stretch. It molds to your body over time.
- Stretch denim includes elastic fibers so the fabric stretches and moves more easily.
Selvedge – Selvedge denim is woven on special shuttle looms that create a clean, finished edge on the fabric.
The Mill – Denim fabric is made at textile mills around the world. Famous mills come from places like Japan, the USA, and Mexico, each producing denim with different textures, colors, and qualities.

These parts help the jeans hold their shape and stay strong.

Seam – A seam is where two pieces of fabric are sewn together.
Stitch – A stitch is the thread pattern that holds the fabric together.
Topstitching – These are the visible stitches on the outside of jeans. They add strength and give denim its classic look.
Lockstitch – A lockstitch is a strong sewing method where two threads lock together inside the fabric, making the seam durable.
Bartack – A bartack is a tight group of stitches used to reinforce areas that experience stress, like pocket corners or belt loops.

These parts help hold the jeans together and make them functional.

Rivets – Small metal pieces placed at stress points like pocket corners to prevent tearing.
Buttons – Used at the waistband or fly to secure the jeans.
Hardware – This includes rivets, buttons, and other metal parts. High-quality jeans often use strong metals like stainless steel so they won’t rust or weaken.
Zipper – Some jeans use a zipper instead of buttons to close the fly.

These sections control how the jeans fit and move.

Waistband – The top band that wraps around your waist.
Belt Loops – Fabric loops attached to the waistband that hold your belt. These are usually secured with bartack stitches for strength.
Yoke – The V-shaped panel on the back of jeans that helps shape the fit around your hips.
Fly – The opening in the front of the jeans where the zipper or buttons are located.
Fly Shield – A piece of fabric behind the zipper or buttons that protects your skin.
Inseam – The seam that runs down the inside of the leg.
Outseam – The seam that runs down the outside of the leg.
Taper – The way the leg narrows from the thigh down to the ankle.

Hem – The finished edge at the bottom of the pant leg that keeps the fabric from unraveling.

One of the most exciting parts of raw denim is how it changes as you wear it.

Fades – Over time, indigo dye rubs off in areas where the fabric bends and moves.
Whiskers – Fade lines that appear across the upper thighs.
Honeycombs – Fade patterns behind the knees created from bending your legs.
Stacks – Vertical fade lines near the ankle when extra fabric bunches up.

image credit: Jonas Kakaroto